Some info on Shutter angles (shutter speed) on the RED
Shutter angle can be represented by a fraction (1/48) or by an angle (180 degrees)and your preference is determined by your background. People from a motion picture background like it represented in degrees. Motion picture cameras have a spinning shutter that alternately lets light hit the film or block it (thus allowing camera to move film to next frame w/out blurring it) so a 180 degree shutter, lets you have light hitting the film half the time. At 24fps, if shutter was 360 (mechanically impossible, but anyway) your exposure per frame would be 1/24, and a 180 shutter, your exposure would be 1/48 (half of 1/24)
If you come from stills or video, you are more familiar with the fractional representation. the default for 24fps is 1/48. If you were to halve that again- 1/96 (90 degrees for the motion picture guys) you are letting the film/sensor "see" for a shorter moment in time. It will need twice as much light since you halved the time. Usually done with iris. another side effect is the shorter the exposure time, the less an object has a chance to move while it is being exposed. This results in things that otherwise might be blurry in an individual frame ending up sharp. In "Saving Private Ryan" shutter angles of 45 degrees (or 1/192) were used at times. this made the camera essentially two stops "hungrier" for light, but in any explosion- the clods of dirt that were normally smudgy within an individual frame ended up being sharp, adding a sense of hyper realism. going the other way (longer shutter speeds) results in more "smeariness" than normal, but also gains you additional exposure.
So, "Normal" shutter angle at 24fps is 1/48 or 180 degrees. A short shutter angle of 1/96 or 90 degrees makes the camera want one more stop of light, but can begin to "freeze" action that otherwise may be blurry. A long shutter angle of 1/24 or 360 degrees gives you an extra stop of light, but movement in the frame will look more smeary than "normal"
Complications arise with lighting that flickers (even though our eyes can not see it) at a rate that conflicts with the shutter angle you have chosen. Good news is that with the Red, you will see it happening in the monitor. there are various way (charts in American cinamatographer manual for example) that help you figure out what is safe given your frame rate and Hz rate of lighting. Fluorescents and HMIs are examples of possible flicker sources. hope that was simple enough.
If you come from stills or video, you are more familiar with the fractional representation. the default for 24fps is 1/48. If you were to halve that again- 1/96 (90 degrees for the motion picture guys) you are letting the film/sensor "see" for a shorter moment in time. It will need twice as much light since you halved the time. Usually done with iris. another side effect is the shorter the exposure time, the less an object has a chance to move while it is being exposed. This results in things that otherwise might be blurry in an individual frame ending up sharp. In "Saving Private Ryan" shutter angles of 45 degrees (or 1/192) were used at times. this made the camera essentially two stops "hungrier" for light, but in any explosion- the clods of dirt that were normally smudgy within an individual frame ended up being sharp, adding a sense of hyper realism. going the other way (longer shutter speeds) results in more "smeariness" than normal, but also gains you additional exposure.
So, "Normal" shutter angle at 24fps is 1/48 or 180 degrees. A short shutter angle of 1/96 or 90 degrees makes the camera want one more stop of light, but can begin to "freeze" action that otherwise may be blurry. A long shutter angle of 1/24 or 360 degrees gives you an extra stop of light, but movement in the frame will look more smeary than "normal"
Complications arise with lighting that flickers (even though our eyes can not see it) at a rate that conflicts with the shutter angle you have chosen. Good news is that with the Red, you will see it happening in the monitor. there are various way (charts in American cinamatographer manual for example) that help you figure out what is safe given your frame rate and Hz rate of lighting. Fluorescents and HMIs are examples of possible flicker sources. hope that was simple enough.
